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aised Beds ----- Meet 'Rosey Lights' Azalea
Azaleas and rhododendrons must have an acid soil. Most of them thrive best at a soil pH between 5.0 and 5.5. Clay soils will require heavier applications of pH-lowering amendment; sandy soils, less amendment. (Soils that are too acid (below pH 4.5) may easily be made less acid by adding ground limestone.)
Rosy Lights 5/11/11
The two winter enemies of azaleas are sun and cold wind. If hardy types are selected and proper locations are chosen, little or no winter protection is needed. If existing varieties show winter damage, provide some protection. Don't be alarmed when leaves curl and droop on cold days; that is normal.
'Northern Lights' - 5/11/11
A little closer...
A slower but more permanent control can be obtained by applying iron to the soil rather than the foliage. Use 2 pounds iron sulfate per 100 square feet (1/8 cup per 10 square feet) or chelated iron according to directions. Conditions leading to chlorosis, such as poor drainage or alkaline soil, must also be corrected. The application of 1-1/4 cups of iron sulfate per 100 square feet of bed area each fall appears to help harden growth for the winter and also help prevent iron chlorosis.
** Most of the information above was taken from the University of Missouri (click for link).
unny Corner Bed
(in the Sunny Corner Bed)
May 2010 (Planted Fall 2009)
To aid establishment, water Siberian irises once a week during hot, dry weather. Water when needed for at least one full growing season. Plants seldom bloom the first year after planting. Siberian irises should be blooming well by the third or fourth year. They will eventually form large, well-established clumps.
Established Siberian irises don't require a great deal of care. Plants can be lightly fertilized in early spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, and also immediately after bloom. A 2- to 3-inch-layer of mulch around the plants helps control weeds and conserves soil moisture. If possible, water once a week during hot, dry weather. Cut back the dead debris in late fall or early spring.
Siberian irises don't have serious insect or disease problems. Division is rarely necessary for Siberian irises. Divide Siberian irises when clumps become crowded or when flowering decreases. Clumps can be divided in early spring at the first sign of growth or immediately after bloom. **
**Information taken from Iowa State University (click for link).
(most of the flowers are very similar)
When dividing your Tiarella babies from the mother plant, carefully separate the individual plant segments you see coming off of the main stem. When planting the divisions, it is critical to keep the crown of the new plants at or just above soil level. If the crown is buried beneath the soil, the plant will rot. Within a few weeks you’ll have small leaves emerging from the crown, and roots will form below the soil.
All a tiarella needs is a small space in the front of your shady perennial garden border and you will enjoy a colorful spring surprise. **
**Information taken from Washington State University's Clark County Extension.
Tiarella in my gardens: Black Snowflake Heronswood Mis Iron Butterfly Neon Lights Pink Skyrocket (the last variety I acquired - May 2008)
Plants in the genus Tricyrtis are called "toad lilies," and these little Asian gems have quickly gained a foothold in todays gardens - deservedly so. Tricyrtis are extremely hardy perennials that send up mysterious, orchid-like blooms in the fall, a time when most plants have had their season and the garden takes on a somewhat barren look. We could put them in the low maintenence category, but they will also respond to a little kindness and attention. One things for sure, they do require shade, deep shade if you are south of the Mason-Dixon line. They love a good, moist soil rich in organic matter. If they don't get their required amount of shade and moisture, their foliage will not show its true beauty. These are also wonderful companions to hostas, hellebores, and woodland lillies which share the same habitat requirements.
**This information came from Garden Web.com (click on the link).
Btw: This post and its content is property of Shady Gardener at this address: www://yardisgreen.blogspot.com
Not Shady - Just Shady G! ;-)